Another pivotal teaching of Rabbi Nachman was that anything important will come with obstacles (Meni'ot). The very letters of "meni'ot" can be rearranged to spell "Ne'imot" (pleasant!). In order to merit arriving at holiness, G-d gives us obstacles to overcome, this making us worthy to "enter the gates" of holiness. Moreover, G-d Himself is hidden in the obstacle. If something comes too easily, it's probably not worth it, or even bad. Moreover, leaders who speak great truths will have opposition. Those who oppose him will see him as a terrible person who MUST be opposed. But G-d uses this situation to push away the insincere, allowing only those who truly seek Truth to approach. This is similar to what I wrote in my article about converts, that they are initially informed that persecution is the norm for our people. If they say "I wish I may be worthy in partaking of this persecution", they are accepted immediately. For Rabbi Nachman, literal converts, Jews who had strayed from the path of observance but are now "returning" and observant, but non-spiritual , Jews, were essentially "in the same boat" in their need to find the person or persons who would open their eyes to G-d.

The Land of Israel was very central to his thinking. Many of the early Chassidic leaders de-emphasized it, reinterpreting it as a metaphor for spirituality. Rabbi Nachman disagreed, and saw the Holy Land as the quintessence of spirituality in "Place", just as Shabbat was the quintessence of spirituality in "Time". Very suddenly, in 1798, he picked himself up and began an amazing journey to Eretz Israel. He only had enough money to get as far as Odessa. With few provisions, accompanied by one of his followers, he set out on the perilous journey. It was the middle of the Napoleonic wars. He even hinted that there was a spiritual connection between himself and Napoleon.The seas were fraught with danger. There are entire books written about his journey. He, at one point, found himself prisoner on a Turkish warship. They wanted to sell him as a slave. He was ransomed by a wealthy Jew in Rhodes. There was misadventure after misadventure. But these were "meni'ot!".  He had to break them in order to break through the forces which kept us in Exile, spiritually as well as physically. The journey took a little over a year. On the eve of Rosh Hashanah, he arrived in Haifa. He walked a few paces, and made a startling statement.

"I have received a perception of G-d that none have ever perceived. I have been given a gift of Rosh Hashanah. From now on, all my followers must come to me for Rosh Hashanah". The meaning of this is far beyond my understanding. However, one can understand to a degree. Rosh Hashanah is the death of the old year, the death of the old "me", and the birth of a new year and a new "me". But it's not about simply changing. It's about transformation to ultimate good. Like the moon seeming about to disappear, then suddenly reappearing and achieving a great brightness, so man has his cycles. The Tzaddik can be instrumental in guiding that transformation, while he is in battle not only with Evil, but with G-d's own attribute of stern judgement. The Tzaddik endeavors to change judgement to mercy, dread to joy. In the presence of the Tzaddik, Rosh Hashanah is a joyous cosmic celebration of rebirth, rather than the traditional concept of a Day of Awe.

When he returned to Ukraine, followers began to flock to him for Rosh Hashanah. Even after his passing, many still flock to his resting place for these days. (In Judaism, many are opposed, but many are for, the concept of visiting the graves of the righteous. I hope to write a separate post explaining the various views on this topic. One thing must be clear, we NEVER pray TO the Tzaddik). In recent years, some 60,000 people come to the city of Uman in Ukraine. Of the seventeen times I personally have been there, thirteen have been on Rosh Hashannah. These were unforgettable, transformational, experiences. In the coming days, even while Ukraine is in political turmoil, many will be on their way to Uman; coming from the U.S., Israel, U.K., Canada, France...everywhere!

There are many people who oppose this on various grounds. One Jewish newspaper recently published a hate-filled scathing critique of the "Cult of Uman". But for Rabbi Nachman's followers, this is just another "obstacle", darkness to be overcome, penetrated, and broken. Many famous rabbis make the trip. None are sorry. Services are conducted there not only in the Chassidic, Ashkenazi rite, but Sephardic and Yemenite as well. Breslov is today a truly multi-cultural movement! As Rabbi Nachman hid his customs, these are not a part of Breslov tradition, and each adherent keeps his own customs.

One year, when I was unable to attend, I spoke to my teacher, Rabbi N.D. Kiwak. He said "One must do everything possible to go and take part. But, if it's ten minutes before sundown on Rosh Hashanah, and you're still not there, connect yourself from wherever you are". For Breslovers, Rosh Hashanah is seen as a most joyous day of coming to G-d, of transforming our lives. Rabbi Nachman once said about crying on Rosh Hashanah. "Yes, tears of joy". In the next two years after returning from Eretz Yisrael, two people came into his life who were central to the development of the movement. One a bitter opponent, one a faithful friend and disciple. That will be my next post.